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1 Reed
A term applied to the number of threads in a given space, usually 1/4-in. or 1-in. Shippers and makers understand the term " 17 reed " to mean 64 ends per inch in the cloth, that is 4 down. When a cloth is indicated by a reed in the quarter-inch count it usually means that the number of threads per inch is 4 less than the reed number X by 4. If the ends per inch are stated, it means that number actual. ———————— A metal comb fixed in a frame; the closeness of its wires determines the fineness of a cloth; it keeps the warp threads spaced evenly, forms a guide for the back of the shuttle, and beats up the weft to the fell of the cloth. Wires are fixed in the baulks at the top and bottom and the number of dents in one inch determines the counts. These wires are set equi-distant by tarred wrapping cords. The counts of a reed are stamped on the binder rods at the end. If required two black wires are set exactly one inch apart near the middle of the reed, the number of dents between indicating the count of the reed. -
2 Reed Counting Systems
Reeds are counted in two systems: (1) Those in which the count or sett is expressed by the number of dents or splits contained in a given space, and include the Radcliffe, Huddersfield, Stockport, Scottish and Macclesfield systems; (2) those in which the count or sett indicates the number of groups of dents contained in a given space. These groups are variously termed beers, porties, or porters, and include the Bolton, Bradford, Dewsbury, Leeds, and Dundee systems. For details see under each system given. REED, ERDMANN - A patented reed used to weave ondule or waved patterns. The wires are specially shaped, and the reeds are raised and lowered in the loom while weaving. REED, FLEXIBLE - Specially constructed reeds used for leno weaving where the douping threads are very thick. They are made by wrapping only one baulk with pitched cord and the other with unpitched cord. REED MARKS - Marks or streaks running the warp way of the cloth. Marks uniformly across the cloth are usually due to insufficient warp threads per inch. Isolated marks may be due to a defective reed. Reed marks may also be caused by incorrect setting of the warp rollers, incorrect timing of shedding and picking, and also by wrong weighting of the warp. REED, OMBRE - A mill term in the U.S.A. for reed marks in cloth showing in the form of streaks running warp way and caused by irregular spacing of the warp threads. REEDS, ONDULE, FAN, or PAQUET - Specially constructed reeds used for weaving wave effects down the cloth. They are of many forms, and when weaving are raised and lowered as required for pattern (see Ondule)Dictionary of the English textile terms > Reed Counting Systems
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3 Reed Rake
A flaw in cloth similar to a pin scratch. -
4 Billiard Cloth
BILLIARD CLOTH, or FELTThe finest textile fabric made and is a woollen cloth of the beaver type. The wool is very carefully selected and then spun with great care. Expert weavers operate the looms which weave into cloths the thousands of very fine threads. The cloth is then milled so thoroughly that it is waterproof and capable of resisting the dampest atmosphere. The dye used is such that light has little effect upon it. The best merino wool is used, and when ready for use the cloth has a perfect level face, soft and smooth. Plain weave is used for the best grades and 3-shaft twill for others. Widths from 72-in. to 81-in. Cloth shrinks about 331/3 per cent from reed width to the finished width. An all-cotton billiard cloth is now being made and is meeting with much support. -
5 combined Rabitz wire cloth and reed lathing
English-German dictionary of Architecture and Construction > combined Rabitz wire cloth and reed lathing
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6 Ondule Reed
This is a special reed with alternate groups of wires converging towards the top and bottom as illustrated. During weaving the reed is gradually raised and lowered in the sley wchich places the warp threads alternately closer together and wider apart and this produces a curved effect in the cloth. The reed is the invention of a Burnley maker and can be arranged in various patterns.
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7 Bolting Cloth
A gauze weave fabric woven from silk yarns in the gum state and fine reed and pick. A very firm finish is given to the cloth. Used for fine sifting, stencils, dress trimmings, and wig foundations (also known as Millers Gauze). Originally made of woollen yams, then linen, and used for sifting flour after being ground. The term is derived from Bolter, a sieve (see Swiss Bolting Cloth) -
8 Grinny Cloth
A term used by both shippers and merchants to indicate that a cloth is very reedy, e.g., instead of the threads being evenly distributed spaces appear where the wires of the reed have been causing the thread to group in twos, threes, etc. (see Reedy Cloth) -
9 Mutka Cloth
A rough, plain weave cloth made in the Punjab, India, on hand looms from native silk. The yarns are coarse and a low reed is used. The cloth is woven undyed and without the gum having been discharged. It is used by the natives for garments. -
10 Fell Of Cloth
The edge of the cloth which is nearest to the reed when being woven. -
11 Linen Reed Count
There are two systems in use, in addition to the one for the heavy linens (see Dundee Reed Counts), viz.: - that for drills which is based upon the number of beers or porters of 40 threads (20 splits) on 30-in.; the other used for Irish damasks, is based upon the number of beers of 20 splits or 40 threads contained in the width of the cloth which is usually given in quarter yards. Thus 100 beer 5/4, or 100 beer 8/4, means 2,000 splits or 4,000 threads on 45-in. and 72-in respectively. -
12 Brattise Cloth
A jute or coarse linen fabric used for such purposes as wind screens, ventilation, etc. in mines. Usually treated to make it rot- and fire-proof. Plain or 2 X 1 twill weave. Very coarse yarns are used in a low count of reed and pick. The better qualities are made double ends. -
13 Duster Cloth
Dress goods fabric piece-dyed and woven on 18/22 shafts in designs made from a combination of twills. The patterns repeat on 70 to 84 ends and 20 to 36 picks; 84 reed, 70 picks per inch, 2/28's worsted warp, 16's to 20's worsted weft, 56-in. in loom to finish 52-in. -
14 Mienchow Cloth
Various silk fabrics made in China. One variety made in Fuchow and Kaichow, Northern China, from mulberry silk, in pieces 17-in. wide and 22 yards long, is used principally for underclothing. In Huchow a fabric is made from waste silk and given this term. After weaving, the fabric is boiled-out and dyed blue, violet, scarlet, etc. This is also used for underclothing. Another variety is made in the Kiangsu Province from waste silk warp and cotton weft. They are all plain weave fabrics and in many qualities of reed, pick and weights. -
15 Longyi
A loin cloth native woven on hand looms in Burma, and worn by men and women. They are in many designs and qualities and all are about 34-in. to 36-in. wide and 72-in. long. Various names are given to the cloths according to the design. Such as Akwet, Bala, etc.; also see Lungi (1) ————————LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYIThe shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use. -
16 Loongees
LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYIThe shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use. -
17 Loonghees
LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYIThe shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use. -
18 Loongyes
LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYIThe shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use. -
19 Loongies
LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYIThe shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use. -
20 Lungis
LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYIThe shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use.
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